Three Michelin-starred chef Eneko Atxa has arrived in London, bringing a fresh, informal and innovative take on Basque cuisine into the heart of Covent Garden.
Eneko at One Aldwych transforms carefully-sourced ingredients into beautifully presented plates that appeal to all the senses. From a seafood starter that evokes the aromas of the Bay of Biscay to wines from Eneko’s very own vineyards, diners will see one of the world’s finest chefs reveal a modern, relaxed and playful side to his cooking with a distinct Basque Country-meets-London style.
Eat
Innovative, exciting yet always with authenticity at its heart, Eneko at One Aldwych’s menu takes a previously unexplored journey through Basque Country cuisine with a few twists along the way.
Colourful morsels of oyster, crab and wild prawn tartare completed by a sea-scented mist makes up Eneko’s Memories of the Bay of Biscay. Meanwhile, the Txerri Boda Pork Festival brings together Iberico ham with basil emulsion, chorizo and black pudding atop soft, pillowy milk bread. Or select something ortutik (from the garden) with a Traditional Talo piled high with beautifully fresh heritage tomatoes and herbs – pure simplicity that is bursting with flavour.
Moving onto main courses, Roasted Iberico presa is served deliciously pink and tender with chickpea sauce and garlic cream. Cod Bizkaina will be a favourite for Basque traditionalists – a rich cod tripe stew in an authentic spicy bizkaina sauce, topped with deep fried cod bites. Meanwhile, Hake arrives in light crispy tempura on top of confit vegetables with red pepper sauce and a delicate parsley emulsion.
Vegetarians are equally spoiled with choices of Mushroom and Cauliflower (cauliflower cream, egg yolk and mushroom foam), Pisto Bilbaina (a satisfying ratatouille-type peasant dish of courgette, green pepper, tomato, sourdough crisp and poached egg), or Patatas in herb and Txakoli sauce with fried crisp egg yolks.
A dessert trolley displays delights including: Caramelised rice pudding; Raspberry macaron with basil ganache; Fresh strawberries with a light yoghurt mousse; Dark chocolate with biscuit crumble base and Cheesecake with red fruits. All come accompanied with traditional Basque sheep’s milk ice cream. Alternatively, the Torrija is as classic as they come and set to become a signature favourite, a comforting and delightfully simple vanilla milk-soaked sponge. To finish, a Basque cheese selection (Gaztaia) rounds things off perfectly with a chilled glass of sweet and elegant Basque Country wine.
Drink
From the floating mezzanine wine bar to the 40-strong all-Spanish list, Eneko at One Aldwych proudly champions the region’s vineyards from start to finish and even features bottles from Eneko’s very own Bilbao winery, Gorka Izagirre, that are exclusive to the restaurant.
For the last decade, Eneko and his uncle Gorka have used local grape varietals to create four unique wines that, by their very nature, perfectly complement Basque cuisine. These include three whites, young to complex, plus a dessert wine. No Basque-inspired wine list would be complete without a strong selection of cava and Eneko at One Aldwych has four to choose from including a very special 2009 organic Cuvée de Carol Cava.
A small but carefully curated number of Aperitivos have also been developed with Eneko’s input including the classic Txakoli and three cocktails: Etxano 75 (Gin Mare and lemon juice topped with Cava); Golden Mary (spice-infused vodka, golden tomato juice, celery foam) and the Basque Cobbler, a fruity wine punch. A wide variety of spirits and Spanish beer is also available, all to enjoy alongside bar snacks featuring signature bites taken from the main menu.
The Venue
The first restaurant designed by celebrated design firm Casson Mann, enter Eneko at One Aldwych through the imposing original cast iron and glass Edwardian doorway and onto a shining copper staircase leading to the floating 30-cover mezzanine bar overlooking the restaurant below.
The space is relaxed, warm and inviting with many materials sourced from craftsmen in the Basque region, wood, steel and stone in particular. The neutral colours and textures are indigenous to the region with naturally irregular chestnut table tops and walls of textured stone. In contrast, clean lines, exposed steel framework of the original Edwardian building and bespoke furniture including contemporary stone leather bucket seats and bold chilli-red banquettes provide a contemporary edge that is distinctively London.
Step off The Strand into Eneko Atxa’s new London home (or, as he would say “hasiera”), a warm Basque welcome awaits.
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