Brian Clivaz, Chairman of Coq d’Or and Langan’s Restaurant Groups, and Laurence Isaacson, co-founder of Groupe Chez Gerard, recently joined forces and bought Soho’s iconic L’Escargot Restaurant – a cherished and long-established institution that has faded whilst London’s restaurant scene has burgeoned and flourished all around it.
However, the changes necessary to restore L’Escargot to its former eminence are already well under way, as a recent visit by H&C News discovered. Now open seven days a week from 11 am until midnight, this is again a restaurant to enjoy and one that is already in the process of not only re-building its reputation, but also of attracting a loyal customer base.
London’s oldest French Restaurant
Housed in a 280 year old town house, L’Escargot is London’s oldest French restaurant and was founded in 1927 by M. Georges Gaudin. It rapidly became the favourite rendezvous of the French émigré community (shades of present day London?), racy socialites, and stars of the local west end theatres.
Gaudin was famous for breeding his own snails in the basement. Coco Chanel was an early visitor, and Greek Street legend has it that Maurice Chevalier adopted his famous straw hat after seeing Max Beerbohm at L’Escargot wearing a boater.
The restaurateurs
Laurence Isaacson is the co-founder of Groupe Chez Gerard, and is an habitué of Soho being a long standing member of the Groucho Club and having operated for many years Soho Soho on Frith Street.
Brian Clivaz has recently overseen the successful refurbishment and relaunch of Mayfair’s Arts Club and is Chairman of the well known Langan’s Brasserie near Green Park.
Both were amongst the founders of Home House private members club.
Key appointments
Working at lightning speed, David Seccombe has joined the team as General Manager, and Oliver Lesnick as Head Chef.
David is a seasoned restaurateur who was previously GM at Scott’s, Mayfair, and Christopher’s, Covent Garden.
Oliver Lesnick (above) heads the kitchen team and was formerly Head Chef of the Cadogan Hotel. He trained for many years with Michel Bourdin at The Connaught and has worked for Jean-Christopher Novelli and Angela Hartnett.
Menu and wine list
It is already evident that the new menu successfully highlights classic French bourgeois dishes which are intended to change seasonally and to be ‘approachably’ priced. As you might expect – the clue is in the name – it will feature snails from both France and England. On our visit, the generous Cocktail d’homard as starter, and Saumon poché a l’oseille were delicious – and the subdued level of conversation around us bore witness to the attention being paid by our fellow diners.
David Seccombe, meanwhile, is determined to win back L’Escargot’s reputation for having one of the best wine lists in the country with wines starting at £18.00 a bottle. Every day, he plans to select an exceptional wine, which will be available by the glass and en carafe and charged at a ‘ridiculously low’ price. If it proves as good as it promises, these wines are sure to attract attention and build custom.
Ambience
L’Escargot, of course, is famous for its mirrored walls hung with work by artists such as Miro and Chagall, but the overall decor had fallen behind modern-day expectations. It’s not a quick or easy process to sympathetically but stylishly bring a 240 year old building back up to standard, but work is already underway and no doubt the results will be revealed to applause when ready in a few months’ time. The promised private dining club on the upper floors will certainly be worth viewing.
L’Escargot, 48 Greek Street, Soho, London, W1D 4EF
020 7439 7474
